Sunscreen 101 : Part 1 : Part 2 : Part 3 : UV Filters
UV Filters Chart: Be a Sunscreen Sleuth
Ever wonder what you’re putting on your skin when you apply sunscreen? Or why all sunscreens seem to break you out? Or whether or not your sunscreen is photostable? If so, then it’s time you become a sunscreen sleuth!
Similar to how analyzing ingredients lists, say for a moisturizer, will help you learn more about the product, analyzing sunscreen ingredient lists can tell you how your sunscreen is protecting you, what UV filters are being used, and whether or not they are photostable.
However, looking at a sunscreen’s ingredient list can be very confusing because a lot of its actives are listed as long chemical compounds. So, here’s a handy sunscreen ingredient chart I’ve made of the different types of UV filters, other names they go by, how they function, and any other precautions:
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Types of Sunscreen UV Filters |
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Active |
Function |
Comments |
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Physical Filters |
Zinc oxide (ZnO) |
Absorbs and block UVA and UVB rays and therefore is considered “broad-spectrum” |
Photostable; less likely to cause irritation; responsible for a sunscreen’s “white cast” |
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Titanium dioxide (TiO2) |
Reflects and blocks UVA and UVB rays, however, it doesn’t protect against the whole range of UVA rays |
Phostable; less likely to cause irritation but may cause breakouts for some people; responsible for a sunscreen’s “white cast” |
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Chemical Filters |
Avobenzone
OTHER NAMES: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Parsol 1789, Eusolex 9020, Escalol 517 |
Absorbs full spectrum UVA rays |
Very photounstable; tends to be unstable when there is octinoxate; Can be stabilized by octocrylene, 4-MBC, Tinosorb, Meroxyl SX, and other UV filters. |
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Tinosorb S OTHER NAMES: Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine |
Absorbs both UVA and UVB rays |
Very photostable; not approved by the FDA so there are no products in the US with this active. |
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Tinosorb M OTHER NAMES: Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol |
Absorbs both UVA and UVB rays, scatters some of them too; helps stabilize other UV filters (esp octinoxate) |
Shows a little photodegradation, but otherwise pretty photostable. Not available in the US. |
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Mexoryl SX OTHER NAMES: Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, ecampsule |
Filters out UV rays |
Photostable; water-soluble; Doesn’t protect against the entire UV spectrum, so has to be combined with other filters for good protection; recently FDA-approved so there are now sunscreens with mexoryl in the US! |
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Mexoryl XL OTHER NAMES: Drometrizole trisiloxane, ecampsule |
Filters out UV rays |
Photostable; oil-soluble; the rest is the same as above |
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Helioplex |
Absorbs UV rays |
Helioplex is basically a name for avobenzone + oxybenzone, a combination that offers broad spectrum protection. |
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Octinoxate OTHER NAMES: Octyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate |
Absorbs UVB rays |
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Octocrylene |
Absorbs UV rays |
In 2006, a study found that octocrylene can increase skin’s photosensitivity to the sun. To what extent is unknown, so its use in sunscreen is questionable at the most. More information is needed. |
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Oxybenzone OTHER NAMES: Benzophenone-3 |
Absorbs UVA rays |
In 2006, a study showed that oxybenzone was photocarcinogenic, or in other words, had a destructive effect on DNA whenever it was exposed to light. Its use in sunscreen is questionable. More information is needed. |
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Octisalate OTHER NAMES: Octyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate |
Absorbs UV rays |
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Homosalate OTHER NAMES: 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl 2-hydoxybenzoate |
Absorbs UV rays |
Found in many Coppertone sunscreens |
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Uvinul T 150 OTHER NAMES: Octyl triazone, ethylhexyl triazone |
Absorbs UV rays |
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Uvinul A Plus OTHER NAMES: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate |
Absorbs UV rays |
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Most of these actives are oil-soluble (only dissolves in oil, not water), which gives sunscreens their water-proof and sweat-proof properties. Therefore, in order to completely remove sunscreen, you have to use an oil, cleansing oil, or makeup remover of some kind.
For more information about FDA approved sunscreen filters and their UV absorption spectrum, click here.
For explanations for other cosmetic ingredients, check here.
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