UV Filters Chart: Sunscreen Active Ingredients
Explanation of the different types of sunscreen UV filters |
Ever wonder what you’re putting on your skin when you apply sunscreen? Or why all sunscreens seem to break you out? Or whether your sunscreen is photostable? If so, then it’s time you become a sunscreen sleuth!
Similar to how analyzing ingredients lists, say for a moisturizer, will help you learn more about the product, analyzing sunscreen ingredient lists can tell you how your sunscreen is protecting you, what UV filters and active agents are being used, and whether or not they are photostable.
However, looking at a sunscreen’s ingredient list can be very confusing because a lot of sunscreen actives are listed as long chemical compounds. So, here’s a handy sunscreen ingredient chart I’ve made of the different types of sunscreen UV filters (physical and chemical actives), other names they go by, their range of protection, how they function, and any other precautions you should be aware of:
| Active | Range* | Max % | Function | Comments | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PHYSICAL FILTERS (Inorganic Sunscreen Filters) |
Zinc Oxide (ZnO) Other Names: - CI 77947 - Nogenol - Pigment white 4 - Zinc gelatin |
UVB, UVA2, UVA1 | 25% | Absorbs and blocks UVA and UVB rays and therefore is considered “broad-spectrum” | Photostable; Less likely to cause irritation; Responsible for a sunscreen’s “white cast”; FDA approved |
| Titanium Dioxide (TiO2) Other Names: - CI Pigment white 6 - Titanium peroxide - CI 77891 - Pigment white 6 |
UVB, UVA2 | 25% | Reflects and blocks UVA and UVB rays, however, it doesn’t protect against the whole range of UVA rays | Photostable; Less likely to cause irritation but may cause breakouts for some people; Responsible for a sunscreen’s “white cast”; FDA approved | |
|
CHEMICAL FILTERS (Organic Sunscreen Filters) |
Avobenzone Other Names: - Butyl methoxy-dibenzoyl-methane - Parsol 1789 - Eusolex 9020 - Escalol 517 - BMBM |
UVA1 | 3% | Absorbs full spectrum UVA rays | Very photounstable; Degrades in light; Oil-soluble; Tends to be unstable when there is octinoxate; Can be stabilized by octocrylene, 4-MBC, Tinosorb, Meroxyl SX, and other UV filters or photo-stabilizers; FDA approved |
| Tinosorb S Other Names: - Bis-ethyl-hexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine - BEMT - Bemotrizinol - Anisotriazine - Escalol S |
UVB, UVA1 | 10% | Absorbs both UVA and UVB rays; Helps prevent photo-destabilization of other actives like avobenzone | Very photostable; Oil-soluble; Not approved by the FDA so there are no products in the US with this active. | |
| Tinosorb M Other Names: - Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol - MBBT - Bisoctrizole |
UVB, UVA1 | 10% | Absorbs both UVA and UVB rays, reflects and scatters some of them too; Helps stabilize other UV filters (esp octinoxate) | Shows a little photodegradation, but otherwise pretty photostable; Dissolves poorly in both oil and water; Not available in the US. | |
| Mexoryl SX Other Names: - Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid - TDSA - Ecamsule |
UVA2 | 3% | Absorbs UV rays, then releases the UV rays as thermal energy; No skin penetration | Photostable; Water-soluble; Doesn’t protect against the entire UV spectrum, so has to be combined with other filters for good protection; FDA-approved so there are now sunscreens with Mexoryl in the US; Patent held by L'Oréal and its brands. | |
| Mexoryl XL Other Names: - Drometrizole trisiloxane - Ecamsule |
UVA2 | 3% | Absorbs UV rays, then releases the UV rays as thermal energy; No skin penetration | Photostable; Oil-soluble; Used synergistically with Meroxyl SX; Not yet approved by the FDA. | |
| Helioplex | UVB, UVA1 | Absorbs UV rays | Helioplex is basically a name for avobenzone + oxybenzone, a combination that offers broad spectrum protection and stability; Not water proof; Held by Neutrogena; FDA approved | ||
| Octinoxate Other Names: - Octyl methoxy-cinnamate - OMC - Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate - EHMC - Escalol 557 - Parsol MCX - Eusolex 2292 - Tinosorb OMC - Uvinul MC80 |
UVB | 7.5% | Absorbs UVB rays | FDA approved; Water-insoluble | |
| Octocrylene Other Names: - Uvinul N539T - OCR - Eusolex OCR |
UVB | 10% | Absorbs UV rays | In 2006, a study found that octocrylene can increase skin’s photosensitivity to the sun, increasing free radicals. To what extent is unknown, so its use in sunscreen is questionable at the most. More information is needed; FDA approved | |
| Oxybenzone Other Names: - Benzophenone-3 - BP3 - Uvinul M40 - Eusolex 4360 - Escalol 567 |
UVB, UVA2 | 6% | Absorbs UVA rays | In 2006, a study showed that oxybenzone was photo-carcinogenic, or in other words, had a destructive effect on DNA whenever it was exposed to light. Its use in sunscreen is questionable. More information is needed; FDA approved | |
| Octisalate Other Names: - Octyl salicylate - Ethylhexyl salicylate - EHS - Escalol 587 |
UVB | 5% | Absorbs UV rays | Has emollient and water-resistant properties; A little greasy; FDA approved | |
| Homosalate Other Names: - Homomethyl salicylate - HMS |
UVB | 15% | Absorbs UV rays | Found in many Coppertone sunscreens; FDA approved | |
| Uvinul T 150 Other Names: - Octyl triazone - Ethylhexyl triazone - EHT |
UVB | 5% | Absorbs UV rays | Not approved by FDA | |
| Cinoxate Other Names: - 2-Ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate |
UVB | 3% | Absorbs UV rays | Slightly yellow; Insoluble in water; FDA approved | |
| Aminobenzoic acid Other Names: - PABA |
UVB | 15% | Absorbs UVB rays | One of the first active ingredients in sunscreen; Causes allergies; Causes clothing discoloration; Increased risk of cellular UV damage; Not used in sunscreens anymore; Banned from sale in Europe | |
| Padimate O Other Names: - OD-PABA - Octyldimethyl PABA - Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA - EHDP - Escalol 507 |
UVB | 8% | Absorbs UVB rays | Water-insoluble PABA derivative; Controversial active because after absorbing UVB rays, the active may produce indirect DNA damage | |
| Ensulizole Other Names: - Phenylbenzimiazole sulfonic acid - PBSA - Eusolex 232 - Parsol HS |
UVB | 4% | Absorbs UVB rays | Feels lighter on skin; Used in sunscreens with less greasy finish; FDA approved | |
| Dioxybenzone Other Names: - Benzophenone-8 |
UVB UVA2 | 3% | Absorbs UVB rays and short-wave UVA rays | Derivative of benzophenone; FDA approved | |
| Meradimate Other Names: - Menthyl anthranilate |
UVA2 | 5% | Absorbs UVA rays | FDA approved | |
| Sulisobenzone Other Names: - Benzophenone-4 - BP4 - Uvinul MS40 - Escalol 577 |
UVB, UVA2 | 5% | Absorbs UV rays | FDA approved | |
| Trolamine salicylate Other Names: - Triethanolamine salicylate |
UVB | 12% | Absorbs UV rays | Odorless; FDA approved | |
| Enzacamene Other Names: - 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor - MBC - Parsol 5000 - Eusolex 6300 |
UVB | 4% | Absorbs UV rays | Approved for use in Europe and Canada; Not approved by the FDA | |
| Bisdisulizole Disodium Other Names: - Neo Heliopan AP - Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate - Bisimidazylate - DPDT |
UVA1 | 10% | Absorbs UV rays | Approved for use in Europe; Not approved by the FDA | |
| Uvinul A Plus Other Names: - Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate - DHHB |
UVA2 | 10% | Absorbs UVA rays | Photostable; Compatible with other UV filters; May provide some protection against free radicals; Approved for use in Europe and Asia; Not approved by the FDA | |
| Uvasorb HEB Other Names: - Diethylhexyl butamido triazone - DBT - Iscotrizinol |
UVB, UVA1 | 10% | Absorbs UV rays | Approved for use in Europe and Asia; Not approved by the FDA | |
| Parsol SLX Other Names: - Dimethico-diethylbenzal-malonate - Polysilicone-15 - PS15 |
UVB | 10% | Absorbs UVB rays | Approved for use in Europe and Asia; Not approved by the FDA | |
| Amiloxate Other Names: - Isoamyl p-Methoxy-cinnamate - IMC - Neo Heliopan E1000 |
UVB | 10% | Absorbs UVB rays | Approved for use in Europe and Asia; Not approved by the FDA |
*UVA1: 340-400nm
*UVA2: 320-340nm
*UVB: 290-320nm
As you can see from the above chart, there are a lot of sunscreen UV filters. Many of them are not approved for use by the FDA, but some will slowly be approved in the coming years.
Most of these sunscreen actives are also oil-soluble (only dissolves in oil, not water), which gives sunscreens their water-proof and sweat-proof properties. Therefore, in order to completely remove sunscreen, you have to use an oil, cleansing oil, emollient cleanser, or makeup remover of some kind.
For explanations for other cosmetic ingredients, check here.
For a list of sunscreens and their UV filters, check here.
Last updated: October 10, 2011
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- How to Minimize the White Cast from a Sunscreen
- Sunscreen: Physical vs. Chemical
- Product Recommendations: Cleansers
- How to Pick the Right Cleanser